Wild Mustang Trek

Day 1 - Fly London to Kathmandu

Depart London on your overnight flight to Kathmandu.

Overnight: In flight

Day 2 - Arrive Kathmandu. Group transfer to hotel.

You will be met on arrival at the airport and transferred to your hotel. You may choose to eat here tonight or venture out into nearby Thamel with its many bars and restaurants.

Overnight: Hotel Shanker Or Similar, Kathmandu

Day 3 - Fly to Pokhara, 827m/2,713ft. Afternoon at leisure.

This morning you will take the short morning flight to Pokhara, Nepal's second city. This exciting flight passes over the terraced Himalayan foothills with views of the main range to the north. Overlooked by the stunning spire of Machapuchare, 'Fishtail Peak', the town of Pohara is the start point for treks to the Annapurna region, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and, of coure, Mustang. On arrival you will transfer to your hotel. The rest of the day is at leisure. Pokhara's bustling lakeside with cafes, shops etc is just a short walk or taxi ride from the hotel.

Overnight: Barahi Hotel or Similar, Pokhara

Day 4 - Fly to Jomsom, 2,743m/9,000ft. Drive to Kagbeni, 2,896m/9,500ft.

You take the 20-minute early morning flight, usually around 7.00am. You will get close-up views from your small aircraft of the Annapurna range, Dhaulagiri and nearby satellites. It is a sensational flight! On arrival you will be met at the tiny airstrip by your Sherpa crew. After some initial preparation of loads and a cup of tea, you drive the sort distance to Kagbeni through dry river beds and streams on the jeep road.

Upon reaching Kagbeni, a very pretty Tibetan-style village, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of wheat and barley and a large red gompa (monastery), there is a taste of scenes to come in Upper Mustang. About 50 families live here, most of them traders who represent the link in the chain between modern Nepal and the 'Tibetan' peoples of Mustang.

At the northern end of the village there is a sign saying 'restricted area, tourists please do not go beyond this point'. Here, tomorrow, you will complete your paperwork formalities to enter this long-prohibited region of Nepal. Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) has set up a very interesting information post here with displays of Mustang artefacts and photos. Look out for the excellent coffee shop very near the ACAP office.

Overnight: Lodge

Day 5 - Drive to Tange, 2,962m/9,600ft. Trek to Tetang and on to Chele, 3,050m/10,0007ft - 4 hours.

To avoid the unpleasant experience of walking on the road you drive to Tangbe, 2,926m/9,600ft, a stunning village with the remains of an old castle, narrow alley ways, ochre coloured chortens and an archery ground and here are also the first black, white and red chortens that typify Upper Mustang.

You then take the path leading inland to the village of Tetang, again well worth exploring, before crossing the river and following the Nari Khola down to Chussang village, at the confluence of the Narshang Khola and the Khali Kandaki. Nilgiri Peak continues to dominate the southern skyline. There are three separate parts to this village and some broken castle walls on the surrounding cliffs. Across the river from Chussang are spectacular red organ-pipe eroded cliffs above the mouth of some inaccessible caves. The five villages of this area, Chele, Gyakar, Chussang, Tangbe and Tetang are home to a culturally unified group of people, closely related to the Manangis, rather than the true Lobas.

There is a distinct change here, not only in topography, but there is also a world of difference in the culture, lifestyle and people. Settlements are more scattered, smaller and more basic. The people of Lo or Mustang do practice agriculture, but because of the lack of rain and fertile soil, cultivation is in sheltered plots of land creating a landscape of patterned brown, with scattered patterns of shaded greens.

Continuing north, this time unavoidably on the jeep road, you reach a huge red chunk of conglomerate that has fallen from the cliffs above forming a tunnel through which the river flows. A steel bridge spans the river just in front of the tunnel and north of here the Kali Gandaki becomes impassable on foot, although locals sometimes travel this route on horseback, through a steep, narrow canyon. There are many caves here high on the fluted red cliffs above. Climbing 100m/328ft to the village of Chele, you stay in a simple but characterful lodge at the upper end of the village. Most of the houses now have sheep horns above their doorways and ghost traps. Watch out also for the ferocious Tibetan mastiffs that many of the local people keep.

Overnight: Lodge

Day 6 - Trek to Samar, 3,660m/11,811ft, via Ghyakar and Kyuten - 5 hours.

Climbing from Chele after breakfast you come to a place where you can see the village of Gyakar across a huge canyon. Here there is a very impressive suspension bridge which you cross and a short climb brings you to fields of barley topped by a wood of large trees. There is no shortage of water here. Then you arrive at the entrance gateway and tunnels under houses that lead to the small square of Gyakar which boasts a single tap and a washing place. Leaving the village you go gently up through odd looking bushy plants and dog roses. It becomes drier and more arid. Continuing up you come to a big gulch and drop down to a stream and then up into a narrow defile. From the exit of the defile it is a long contour round to the village of Samar. As you walk from Gyakar look across to your right and you will see the old cliff path that used to be the main path from Chele to Samar. Some people do still use it apparently.

Samar sits in a grove of poplar trees and is a major stopping place for the mule caravans coming from Tibet.

Overnight: Lodge

Day 7 - Drive to Ghami, 3,520m/11,549ft - approximately 2 hours. Explore village.

From Samar our aim is to move to Lo Manthang by jeep. By trekking the first two days you will have already gained valuable acclimatization and now you will maximise the time available for seeing the northern villages and trekking the eastern route. At the same time it gives you the opportunity to explore the important village of Ghami and the township of Tsarang.

From Samar the jeep road takes the western most route through Bena, Chungsi, Syangboche and Geling crossing the Nyi La Pass, 4,045m/13,271ft, before dropping down to the beautiful village of Ghami. Here you check in to the Hotel Royal Mustang, one of the best lodges in Mustang, owned by the 'royal' family there. You will stay in the relatively new lodge and eat your meals in the large, ancient, family house, full of interesting things!

In the afternoon you can make a thorough exploration of this medieval village. There are two temples here, a small and very old one right out on the eastern corner of the village, and a larger gompa very close to the massive crumbling palace. Every street and alleyway is worth delving into, but a must is to see the incredible cliff dwellings half an hours hike west out of the village. There are several clusters of caves set into the massive fluted cliffs. To your left is an eroded mountain that looks like some god of architecture designed it.

Overnight: Lodge

Day 8 - Drive to Lo Manthang, 3,770m/12,369ft, via Tsarang, 3,520m/11549ft - approximately 3 hours.

From Ghami the jeep track leads down to the river and on past the longest mani wall in Mustang, and then climbs to the Choga La Pass, 3870m/12,697ft. You continue to Tsarang, built near the Charang Khola, a tributary of the Kali Gandaki Nadi. This is the second largest settlement in Mustang and has a feeling of importance. The huge entrance chorten is very impressive. The town is dominated by the fortress/palace and the nearby Thupten Shedrup Monastery. The old palace is where at least a couple of explorers were treated as guests - Michel Peissel was one in 1964 and also Ekai Kawaguchi, the famous wandering Japanese monk who stayed here on his way to Tibet in 1899. The ancient palace is in part a small museum.

From Tsarang the road drops down into a deep canyon before climbing up the other side. Stop to soak up the panoramic views - to the south are the Annapurna peaks and the familiar peak of Nilgiri, to the east is a chain of snow-capped peaks, the largest of which is Bhrikuti, 6363m/20,877ft. The road passes the famous Sungda Chorten, and you will be amazed by yet more cliffs of differing coloured strata. Finally you cross the Lo La Pass, 3850m/12,631ft, to get your first sight of the fabled squared-walled city of Lo Manthang below.

Overnight: Royal Mustang Lodge, Lo Manthang

Day 9 - At leisure and sightseeing in Lo Manthang.

You will have a full day at leisure and for exploration around Lo Manthang. The city is an absolutely fascinating place, with narrow streets and houses built adjoining the city wall and contains about 150 houses, plus many cells for lamas. There are three major temples within the city and there is a caretaker with a key available at certain times. These temples really are very impressive, with huge clay statues of various Buddhas. There is a large amount of renovation and restoration taking place in all the temples in Lo Manthang and this is going to take years to complete. The 2015 earthquake also did a lot of damage and part of the palace, an imposing 4-storey building in the centre of the city had to be demolished. The last king was an active horseman and kept a stable of the best horses in Mustang. He also bred Lhasa Apso dogs and had several monstrous Tibetan mastiffs. His son, Jigme Bista, is rightfully the new king of Mustang although the present government of Nepal has passed a law forbidding royal titles. He is therefore the 'unofficial' king.

Overnight: Royal Mustang Lodge, Lo Manthang

Day 10 - Trek to Namgyal, 3,845m/12,615ft, Thinggar and on to Chumjung, 4,170m/13,681ft - 4 hours. Meet nomads.

Leaving Lo Manthang you drop down to cross the Chohorak Dokpa Khola river and take the path for an hour to the small village of Namgyal. The monastic school sits austerely on a hill above. A huge gloomy structure it was founded in 1465 but extended in 1953. It has a small but interesting museum. Now you carry on northwards, gaining only a little height to reach Thinggar where you can see the summer palace of the late king. This too was built only in 1950.

Further up the plain and beyond the Khiwaling Khola River is the herder settlement of Kiwaling. We hope to camp beyond here at Chumjung, where you will meet some of the last families of nomads living in this region. These nomads live in large yak hair tents and they have large herds of sheep and goats. Watch out for their large Tibetan mastiffs! By definition the nomads move from place to place but we expect them to be at Chumjung at this time.

As this is a short and easy day there should be time in the afternoon to explore a little beyond camp. There are a number of interesting looking paths.

Overnight: Camp

Day 11 - Trek via Garphu, 3897m/12,785ft, to Bharcha, 3,845m,12,615ft - 4 hours.

Moving on from Chumjung you cross a rise and drop down to the Chhungma Khola and to the small hamlet of Nyamdo where there is an ancient gompa. The scenery is dramatic - riverside cliffs and bluffs, peppered with accessible caves and topped here and there with old walled fortresses. This was, and still is, the only way to Tibet, hence the fortifications, as Tibetans were a warlike race long before the Dalai Lamas came to power. In fact you cross the road leading to Tibet on your way to Garphu and Ghom. Take your time as there is much to see here and it is not far to Bharcha. We recommend you visit the monastery of Garphu which has a small school attached. Visiting Thong is another option.

Leaving this fantastic collection of caves, cliffs ruins and hamlets behind you now walk southwards on a good path to the village of Bharcha. There is a very nice tea shop here that you will no doubt relax in after an unforgettable day.

Overnight: Camp

Day 12 - Trek to Samdzong, approximately 3,950m/12,959ft - 4 hours.

Another fabulous day in the Kingdom of Lo! It's a short day but with much excitement. From Bharcha you make a steep little sandy climb and then it is slowly up to the pass, the Samdzong La, 4052m/13,294ft. There follows an exciting path that weaves its way down through spectacular cliffs. At one point the path is a ramp of dry stone walling against a cliff. You come to a mani wall at the bottom of the descent. You are now on the floor of a huge new valley. High above is a wonderful cluster of cave dwellings. Theories differ for such caves being from between 2,000 to 8,000 years old. You turn left and north east and follow the path. The scenery gets more amazing the further you go. A thin stream, only 2 feet wide snakes along the floor. Occasionally there are barely recognizable huge chortens, decayed by time. There are massive cliffs with wonderful paths. At one point there is a highly decorated chorten with many prayer flags strung across the gorge. Here you will be asked to take off your hats because the residing spirit does not like them. There are a few fields before you reach the perfect Tibetan-style village of Samdzong.

In 2011 a team of Swiss archaeologists came to Samdzong and in a nearby cave discovered the remains of 27 humans, possibly dating back 1500 years. These are being kept in a rough building at the end of the village. It may be possible to find the key to visit this.

Overnight: Camp

Day 13 - Trek to Lo Manthang, 3,770m/12,369ft, via Nenyul - 6 hours.

Samdzong is struggling to survive as global warming dries up their water supply. It is heart wrenching to think that in years to come such a beautiful place could be abandoned. Also incredible to think there are other villages in Mustang even more remote than this.

On the way back, just down from Samdzong you may venture up a narrow canyon, just for fun. It should take you 3½ hours to arrive back at the tea shop at Bharcha for a well-deserved drink in the friendly company of the family who own it. It is now no more than 2½ hours to Lo Manthang. Leaving Bharcha you eventually pass around 20 new houses. The royal family gave the land to people wanting to flee from villages like Ghara, where water shortages are forcing them to leave. Reaching Nenyul you pass some highly decorated chortens before crossing the river on a footbridge. From here it is a little over an hour to Lo Manthang where you will probably stay at a lodge called the Lotus Holiday Inn.

Overnight: Lodge

Day 14 - In Lo Manthang. Tiji Festival (May 2022 departure) or day at leisure with optional walks.

Tiji Festival (spring 2022) The spring departure in 2022 is timed to coincide with the incredible annual festival of Tiji, said to be one of the most atmospheric events still held in the Himalaya. Held annually to chase away demons, it is a time of prayer and dance as monks don colourful costumes and masks and perform ritual dances watched by spectators (dressed in their best clothes and jewelry) who will have gathered from throughout the region. There are usually horse races out on the 'Plain of Prayers' and a Tibetan style Tug-of-War. It is not always obvious where and when these elements of the festival will take place so your leader will have to make enquiries. The festival is truly an experience not to be missed.

At leisure and optional walks We suggest today you make a lovely and worthwhile half day walk to the ruined castle that can be clearly seen atop a conical hill just north of Lo Manthang. This castle is said to have existed well before Lo Manthang was founded in 1441. It follows that the first king of Mustang, Ame Pal, must have lived here, before building the palace that exists to this day inside the square walled city. It takes about an hour to reach the village of Namgyal and then a further hour will see you standing on top of the castle. A fantastic path leads back down to Mustang.

Overnight: Lodge

Day 15 - Trek to Dhiagon, 3,420m/11,220ft - 6 hours.

Leaving Lo Manthang it is an hour uphill to the Lo La Pass, 3,940m/11,220ft. Follow the road down for 5 minutes to a small chorten. The main road goes to Tsarang but you turn off to the left. It is desolate country with a few ups and downs and contouring in and out. There is a huge escarpment to the left with layered cliffs and great views to the right, southwards, of Nilgiri Peak. There is a good chance of seeing Blue Sheep along here. The first pass, 4,100m/13,452ft, arrives after 3½ hours but the real descent is half an hour further on, 4,042m/13,261ft. Enjoy the excellent views from the pass before descending steeply down to the attractive village of Dhi, nestled at the foot of a colourful striated cliff. Relatively few tourists visit Dhi and the villagers here are most welcoming. It is worth taking a short walk out of the village to visit the old ruined monastery.

Overnight: Camp

Day 16 - Trek to Yara, 3,615m/11,860ft, and visit Luri Gompa and cave, 4,000m/13,100ft - 7-8 hours.

From Dhigaon you cross the Mustang Khola (river) and follow the smaller Puyon Khola, strewn with ammonite fossils, and past striking sculpted cliffs before starting the climb to the village of Yara.

From Yara you will make a round trip to visit the ancient cave monastery of Luri Gompa, passing through some of the most beautiful scenery in Mustang. It is worth taking your head-torch to help you see the incredible frescoes inside the gompa. From Yara you continue through dramatic scenery for another couple of hours, passing the village of Ghara, to the crumbling, rugged landscape above which Luri Gompa sits like a precariously balanced eagle's nest amongst terracotta spires. There is no written record documenting the construction of the monastery but it is believed to date back to the 13th - 14th century and is associated with the Kagyu sect of Buddhism. The small chambers of the monastery are carved into the rock, with incredible paintings adorning the smooth domed ceiling and along several wall panels. There is a complex of small cave dwellings nearby which are believed to be associated with the monastery. There should also be time to explore the distinctive village of Ghara on your return trek to Yara.

Overnight: Lodge

Day 17 - Trek to riverside, Dhegaon, 3,445m/11,335ft - 4 1/2 hours.

In 2017 Mountain Kingdoms donated $477 to the village elders at Yara who had been trying to pump water to a new orchard. You might like to see what progress has been made.

You now climb out of the village and take the 'high route' to Dhegaon. Pass the collecting pond above Yara and turn right. The route takes you up on to the top of a massive level plain at 3,719m/12,201ft, whose edge is the fluted cliffs that are so awesome and so massive, seen yesterday. You next cross a pass, 3,710m/12,172ft, slightly lower than the high point of the plain, before dropping steeply down to a few relatively new buildings on the edge of the Dechung Khola river. A new foot suspension bridge is being built here and when finished the buildings may become a lodge. Small souvenirs were on sale here in 2017, including many fine ammonites.

Overnight: Camp

Day 18 - Trek to Tange, 3,370m/11,056ft - 5 hours.

Start the long 1¾ hour hike to the 'Slow Go' Pass, 3,911m/11,056ft. In the guidebook by Sian Pritchard-Jones and Bob Gibbons they make this sound steep and scary - it is not. An easy continuous haul brings you to the pass, a gain of 456m/1,496ft. Beyond and below the pass is a huge undulating plateau which dips down ahead. Cross this with many ups and downs, flat sections and occasional gullies. The ground is dotted with low, thorny bushes. Finally you find yourselves contouring around gigantic, mud cliffs and then down to a vast flat plateau. On the far side you come to the edge of a vertical cliff and you look down into a huge river basin. A small cairn marks the way down through a narrow passage in-between conglomerate cliffs. This descent is perhaps the best bit of the day as the village, like a green lozenge, comes into view. Tange has some of the largest decorated chortens in the whole of Mustang.

Overnight: Camp

Day 19 - Tek to Pha, 4,100m/13,452ft - 6 hours.

The day starts with a gentle climb for an hour or so, before crossing the Tage Khola (sandals may be required for the crossing here). From the far side of the river bank you climb steeply to the Le Lo La (pass) at 4,200m/13,779ft where there are sensational mountain views of the high peaks including Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri and Tilicho. If you are lucky you may also be able to spot the rare blue sheep sometimes found grazing here. The path is generally wide and good, but there are occasional airy stretches.

Just below the pass on the other side are a series of springs which allow for a traditional high camping ground known as Pha where you will camp overnight.

Overnight: Camp

Day 20 - Trek to Tetang, 2,997m/13,452ft - 7 1/2 hours.

Now the sense that the huge adventure is nearing its end will begin to sink in. From Pha, with its small ponds for watering the nomads' sheep and goats, the path traverses a hillside and it becomes a very pleasant walk indeed, with views of Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri. Again parts of this this path sound very scary in Bob and Sian's guidebook. Don't worry, the main path is fine. There is one small section of moderately exposed cliff path and even this is wide enough for laden horses.

The final stretch back from the cliff edge is fantastic, as is the long descent to the lower regions of Mustang. You actually come down near Chussang but reaching the bottom you will turn left and 20 minutes brings you to Tetang and the Kailash Hotel which has a nice orchard for 'green camping'

Overnight: Camp

Day 21 - Drive to Jomsom, 2,743m/9,000ft.

You finish your trek with the walk to Chussang to meet your transport for the exhilarating drive through Kagbeni and on to Jomsom.

Now is time to celebrate your achievement with a party for your trusty Sherpas as tomorrow you fly back to 'civilisation'.

Overnight: Lodge

Day 22 - Fly to Kathmandu via Pokhara. Transfer to hotel.

Today you fly from Jomsom, through the Himalayan Mountains, down the Kali Gandaki Gorge, feeling like an insect in such grand surroundings, to land in Pokhara. From Pokhara you will fly to Kathmandu where you will be met and transferred to your hotel.

Overnight: Hotel Shanker Or Similar, Kathmandu

Day 23 - At leisure in Kathmandu.

Kathmandu, Asia's former hippie capital, has a wonderful mixture of crowded bazaars, Hindu and Buddhist temples, shrines and stupas, colonial and ancient architecture as well as more modern buildings. You could explore the bazaars and temple complexes of Durbar Square to best absorb the myriad impressions assailing your culture-shocked senses. You could also hire a mountain bike to explore, or take a ride out to the fascinating city of Bhaktapur, an hour or so east of Kathmandu. There are plenty of excellent places to eat in Kathmandu, cheap, noisy and cheerful in Thamel, or more luxurious in the surrounding areas of the city.

Overnight: Hotel Shanker Or Similar, Kathmandu

Day 24 - At leisure. Afternoon transfer to the airport. Depart Kathmandu.

You will have a little more time at leisure today in Kathmandu before an afternoon group transfer to the airport for your overnight flight back to London.

Overnight: In flight

Day 25 - Arrive London.